Last European Wilderness
Gorski kotar
There once was a time when the natural landscapes of Gorski Kotar were inaccessible, wild and untamed. On old maps, the area was commonly referred to as “Hortus diabolicus”, or the “Devil’s Garden”. This inaccessibility has created a safe and hidden haven for many plant and animal species. Gorski Kotar is a treasure trove of diverse landscapes, luscious and preserved forest vegetation, clear rivers, streams and lakes, pristine nature, as well as spread out, but harmonious, diverse habitats.
In order to experience the forest in all of its glory, you need to wander through one of its sanctuaries, such as Risnjak National Park, or get lost in the corners of the wooded and rocky labyrinths of the untouched nature, such as the White and Samarske Rocks strict nature reserve, where the trees fall down from old age or dry up like scarecrows swaying in the wind, rotting on the forest bed for decades, and providing a safe haven to tens and thousands of species of mushrooms, moss, slime mould, algae, micro-organisms, as well as numerous small and large animals, until they break down into the soil, creating fertile humus and providing nutrients for new trees to grow. The unique mosaic of forest communities and the playful karst terrain can also be witnessed at Golubinjak Forest Park, packing a wealth of natural beauty and unique features of the area, despite its relatively small size.
Endowed with a great habitat diversity, Gorski Kotar takes us on an exciting and unusual journey through deciduous forests, pure coniferous forests, a mix of both, as well as other types of forest communities. Stepping from a deciduous forest to a pure coniferous forest is common for the “frost pockets” scattered across Gorski Kotar. The low areas of land are prone to lower temperatures compared to the surrounding areas, as well as frost, naturally attracting plant species that thrive in those colder conditions, such as plants native to mountain tops. It seems as though our short “journey” through the rich nature of Gorski Kotar has transported us all the way to the far north of Europe, to one of the Scandinavian countries, into the realm of the boreal taiga forest!
The most important inhabitants of the forests of Gorski Kotar are beech, fir and spruce trees. The richness of flora in this woodland is reflected by the large number of endemic and relict species, such as Hacquetia epipactis, Omphalodes and Lamium.
The luscious forests of Gorski Kotar are also home to an abundance of wildlife. The region is part of the Natura 2000 ecological network, composed of areas important for the preservation of wildlife habitats and habitat types, as well as numerous bird species, such as the golden eagle, rock pigeons, Ural owl, western capercaillie, common buzzard, black woodpecker, woodpecker, and boreal owl. Ornithological research conducted in Gorski Kotar recorded 97 bird species, of which 72 nest in and around Risnjak National Park. Visitors are sure to spot, or at least hear, some of them while visiting the Park.
Gorski Kotar is also home to many other animal species. It is one of the rare places in Europe still inhabited by the three representatives of Europe’s large carnivores: the brown bear, the grey wolf and the Eurasian lynx. In these parts, large carnivores have lived alongside humans since ancient times, sharing the same living space and food resources, which has led to conflicts in the past. A coexistence marked by prejudice, hate and negative symbolism has resulted in complete extinction of these animals in most European countries. The mere fact that Gorski Kotar is still home to these majestic animals is a testimony to the degree of preservation of the landscapes and habitats they live in. Today, we know a great deal more about these large carnivores, especially their role as apex predators in the ecosystem, as well as their role in shaping the natural landscape of Gorski Kotar.
If you’re lucky, while visiting Risnjak National Park or another part of the wilderness of Gorski Kotar, you might just catch a glimpse of one of these large beasts or some other charismatic forest inhabitant like the fox, European wildcat, roe deer, deer, wild boar and chamois, or even the charming otter on your walk along the river Kupa.
Three large carnivores of Gorski Kotar
Forests are the realm of three large carnivores: the lynx, the wolf, and the bear. The lynx is a cautious and elusive animal. Very few people are lucky enough to see a lynx in the wild. They stalk and ambush their prey, hiding in high rocks or a fallen tree trunk. Wolves are family-oriented animals that roam large distances with other members of their family, or pack. They are naturally timid and stay away from humans, so a wolf roaming the forest is as rare a sight as a lynx. The bear is the real master of the forest. Although they belong to the carnivore family, meat is only a small part of their diet. They roam the forest and meadows in search of delicious herbs like bear's garlic or arum, as well as fruits and forest fruit trees such as beechnuts, raspberries or blackberries. Their menu also includes insect larvae and carcasses of prey animals killed by wolves or lynxes. Bears are proud owners of the best sense of smell of any forest animal, and scavenging leftovers after hikers and other recreationists (even biodegradable waste we often leave behind in the forest) often leads them to human settlements, and into trouble.
Western capercaillie
The western capercaillie, found only in a small area of Gorski Kotar (mostly above 1000 metres), is a bird restricted to old, natural and preserved forests. The world’s largest grouse, it is currently one of the most endangered bird species in Croatia. The massifs of Risnjak and Snježnik are an important habitat and nesting site of the western capercaillie. Their numbers are in decline due to human disturbance, habitat fragmentation and loss of natural forest stands, highlighting the role of protected areas, as well as preserved natural and old forests, as refuge habitats important for their conservation.
Hearing the male capercaillie’s call is somewhat of an unusual experience. The males live solitarily, apart from a brief period in spring when they gather at special mating grounds, or leks, attracting the attention of the females by singing and elaborate courtship display. Male and female birds are distinctly different in appearance, and the capercaillie is no exception. The subdued appearance of the female capercaillie allows it to blend almost perfectly with the forest floor, so as not to attract attention. This is important because the capercaillie is a ground-nesting bird.
Butterfly Valley
The Kupa Valley, more precisely the northern part of its upper flow, is also known as the enchanting “Butterfly Valley”. In hydromorphological terms, it is a canyon with small basins, and due to its low altitude and the fact that it is deeply cut into the surrounding terrain, it has a significantly milder climate and warmer temperatures compared to the rest of Gorski Kotar. Around 60% of the butterfly species present in Croatia have been recorded in the area.
